CULTURE
Appropriation or Appreciation: Exploring Cultural Influences in Fashion and Beauty
By: Sheza Qasim Edited by: Lauren Sorabella
Fashion and beauty have long taken inspiration from a wide variety of sources – including different cultures. While frequently these inspirations are credited, some brands and trends overlook the cultural significance behind them. Recently, Dior has been under fire for advertising bracelets that have extremely similar characteristics to South Asian bangles. This is not the brand’s first instance of cultural appropriation. In 2022, Dior was accused of taking inspiration (without giving credit) from a Chinese pattern worn by women in the Ming Dynasty. Fashion isn't the only place we see cultural appropriation; other notable examples include the westernization of the gua sha or the trend of oiling hair for a “clean girl” look.
According to Britannica, cultural appropriation refers to “members of a majority group adopting cultural elements of a minority group in an exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical way.” On the other hand, cultural appreciation is an effort to learn about another culture with a goal of broadening one’s perspective and connecting with others cross-culturally. While some circumstances can be considered appreciation, failing to credit or explain the significance of cultural elements and history can be interpreted as cultural appropriation.
In the case of the Summer 2024 Dior scandal, their newest “My Dior” jewelry line appears to be heavily inspired by South Asian aesthetics and jewelry. While the collection describes their inspiration as “reinvented through a series of exquisitely precious jewelry pieces, featuring the graphic lines of the iconic cannage,” many people, especially those of South Asian descent, noticed the similarities between Dior’s bracelets and traditional South Asian jewelry. Dior was also accused of cultural appropriation in 2022, when they released a pleated skirt with a Chinese mamianqun (a type of Hanfu typically worn by women in the Ming Dynasty), without giving credit. However, the consequences Dior faced seem minimal as they were never “canceled” and their sales and revenue have since remained steady. The greater issue at hand is how big corporations can succeed in profiting from other cultures without bestowing credit.
A Pakistani student at New York University, Alishba Qasim, expressed that as a girl of South Asian heritage, it hurts to see brands mimic her culture. “I remember a time in my life when these kinds of bracelets and trends were frowned upon and characterized as exotic, and although I am excited about my culture being represented on bigger platforms such as Dior, I feel there is a proper way to display this fashion without taking away from their uniqueness and cultural meaning.” For many people, the same is true: they feel excited to see a part of themselves represented in mainstream media, but are disappointed when there's no regard shown for their culture.
Along with brands, trends can also be problematic in their ignorance of the culture from which they originate. The “clean girl” aesthetic has been trending for years now, with the popularization of slick back hair, gold hoops, and clear lip gloss. While the first “clean girls” people often recall are Hailey Bieber or Sofia Richie, slicked-back hair and lip gloss can be originally traced back to the Chola aesthetic – an aesthetic popularized by Mexican-American women living in Southern California throughout the 90s and 2000s. By adopting these elements without acknowledgment, the "clean girl" trend erases an aesthetic that carries significant cultural meaning.
Within the clean girl aesthetic, the gua sha has been popularized on social media. However, many people aren't aware of its history and traditional uses, which minimizes its original cultural significance. The gua sha originated around 400 BC in China as a technique to help relieve pain and side effects of illnesses. The gua sha was not used as a beauty tool until around 200 years later, when it was utilized alongside acupuncture and massage techniques. American media has now rebranded the gua sha to be a “magical tool” to get rid of puffiness from the face, stripping away its original cultural and medicinal significance.
Cultural appropriation isn’t limited to brands and trends. Celebrities have also been accused of their choices when considering appropriation. At the 2022 Met Gala, Emma Chamberlain was accused of cultural appropriation when she wore a choker that belonged to an Indian ruler. The necklace went missing until it was found in a jewelry shop in London. While many people believe that Chamberlain didn't participate in appropriation, others believe that the necklace should have been returned to the ruler's family instead of it being flaunted on the red carpet. Ultimately, this situation underscores the importance of accountability in the fashion world, urging celebrities and brands alike to be more mindful of cultural narratives with which they engage.
While it may seem like the effects of cultural appropriation are small, minority groups feel underappreciated due to these instances. But what changes appropriation to appreciation? A good start would be familiarizing oneself with the history behind trends and aesthetics. Brands should also make a point to openly acknowledge when their designs are inspired by specific cultures. The lack of acknowledgment of the cultural origins of a beauty ritual or a piece of clothing makes members of these communities feel invisible, as their traditions and culture are adopted, but not respected.
