BUSINESS
Beyond Black History Month: The Black Circular Economy in Fashion
By: Chioma Gregoire
Every February, there's a surge in support for Black-owned businesses, particularly in the fashion industry. Social media is flooded with lists of Black designers to shop from, major retailers spotlight Black creatives, and sales for Black-owned brands often spike. But once Black History Month ends, does this momentum continue? Or does it fade, leaving Black entrepreneurs to navigate an inconsistent market? The spending habits of the Black community are essential to the economy, and fashion is no exception. Understanding how the Black dollar circulates—or fails to—can provide insight into how the public can make a lasting impact on Black fashion businesses.
By highlighting the economic power of Black consumers while addressing the challenges Black fashion brands face in maintaining year-round support, we can encourage the sustained investment in Black-owned fashion labels beyond Black History Month. This reinforces the importance of long-term economic empowerment rather than seasonal recognition. “The Black dollar is vital to the American economy. As we are all identifying, sharing and paying homage to these great Black-owned businesses, we need to recognize the value of our dollar” says Guy Wood Sr., creative director at NYC-based boutique Harlem Haberdashery. Black Americans are no stranger to consumerism and their innate spending power proves to be economically advantageous, wielding $1.3 trillion in annual spending power, up 114 percent from 2000, according to a research study conducted by Nielsen Holding. Within that spending number, roughly eighty percent goes to essential living expenses such as housing and healthcare, and twenty percent is allocated to small and large luxuries like clothing, entertainment, and beauty.
Historically, within the fashion landscape, various systemic barriers have limited Black consumers and brands from capturing sustained consumer spending. In a spotlight article by Business of Fashion, Professor Kimberly Jenkins, a Fashion Studies professor at Ryerson University in Ontario, noted, “Clothing from luxury to mid-level brands were leverage for social mobility and showed what you could afford, the lifestyle you are living. Major brands and logos were key for expressing that. Particularly if the white gaze was in the purview.” This put a significant stress on Black consumers to assimilate. By spending their dollars at major retailers, they seemed to place more of an emphasis on self-identification amongst the Black community as a way to demonstrate their social mobility, economic success, and assimilation into broader societal expectations. The visible consumption of these logos and high-status items became a symbol of belonging, not just to the fashion elite, but also to a larger social order where Black consumers sought acceptance within a framework that often did not fully embrace them. This dynamic also contributed to a pattern where Black fashion entrepreneurs struggled to maintain market share or even visibility, as consumers were conditioned to favor established, mainstream brands over emerging Black-owned labels.
From February 1st, the impact of corporate initiatives and social media campaigns on Black-owned fashion brands increased significantly. This surge is largely driven by targeted corporate initiatives and social media campaigns, which spotlight Black creatives, encourage consumers to "Buy Black," and amplify the importance of Black designers. Major retailers and platforms often leverage the month to promote special collections or collaborations with Black designers, making February a crucial time for sales and brand exposure. Social media plays a particularly significant role in driving this increase in visibility. Hashtags like #BlackOwnedBusiness, #SupportBlackFashion, and #BuyBlack gained traction, encouraging consumers to direct their spending toward Black-owned brands. This shift in consumer behavior often leads to a temporary surge in sales. However, this boost in engagement is typically short-lived, leaving brands to contend with the challenge of retaining new customers once the month ends.
Accessibility is another significant barrier. Many Black-owned brands operate on smaller scales, which means they may struggle to keep up with demand during peak periods like Black History Month. This can lead to stockouts, delays in fulfillment, or limited distribution, making it difficult for consumers to follow through on their purchases or continue supporting the brand post-BHM. The struggle for year-round support is something that activists like Aurora James have been advocating for. In late May 202o, James, a designer and activist, created the 15% Pledge, which called on major retailers to dedicate at least 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. This initiative gained traction when Sephora made headlines as the first major retailer to publicly sign on. These efforts reflect a growing shift toward long-term commitment to Black-owned businesses, rather than seasonal gestures. However, as James points out, this movement is still evolving. "She said, that is starting to change as people of all races start to think about who and what they are supporting." This indicates a significant opportunity for consumers, retailers, and brands to build lasting, impactful relationships that go beyond just one month of the year. When consumers make Black-owned brands a part of their regular shopping habits, it helps sustain the economic viability of these businesses, ensuring they have the financial backing to innovate and scale.
Retailers, especially large-scale ones, hold significant power in shaping the visibility and success of Black-owned fashion brands. In order to make lasting change, major retailers must commit to long-term partnerships with Black designers. “It’s not [that those who shop Black are] anti-other, we’re just really trying to create self-sustainability,” said Charles McKaye, a host of the Detroit Metro Plug Podcast.
This is severely affected by the current presidential administration’s anti-DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) policy and tariff policies. These policies have created an additional layer of challenge for Black-owned businesses. The new DEI policy, which restricts government support for diversity initiatives, can limit opportunities for Black designers to access resources, grants, and federal support programs that are crucial for growth and development. This policy has sparked debates over how companies and institutions should approach diversity efforts, and for many Black-owned fashion businesses, it can feel like an added barrier to success. By eliminating or limiting diversity initiatives, the administration is reducing the platforms available to nurture emerging talent, and this lack of systemic support can slow the advancement of Black designers in an industry where they are already underrepresented. Now more than ever its key to overcome these challenges by embracing consumer awareness and ongoing support. As consumers increasingly recognize the power of their purchasing decisions, they can use their spending to counteract the negative effects of these policies. By consistently supporting Black-owned brands, especially those that emphasize sustainability, quality, and innovation, shoppers play a critical role in the long-term viability of the Black circular economy in fashion.
The current Black fashion landscape is flourishing with a mix of emerging and established brands that are redefining industry standards in terms of quality, craftsmanship, and sustainability, but still falls short in maintaining a significant stake in the consumer market. Highlighting these brands not only appreciates the vision they aim to create but provides the reasoning for why we should aim to support Black businesses all year round. In the beauty space, brands like Topicals, Ami Cole, Lys Beauty, Black Girl Sunscreen, and Fenty Beauty have reshaped how the industry views inclusivity and self-care. These brands cater specifically to the needs of Black consumers, providing products that are effective, inclusive, and culturally relevant. Fenty Beauty alone revolutionized the makeup industry by offering an unprecedented range of shades, setting a new standard for inclusivity in beauty.
In fashion, house names like Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, Brandon Blackwood, Hanifa, and Golf Wang have consistently pushed the boundaries of creativity and cultural representation. These brands are not only known for their stunning designs, but for their ability to blend heritage with modern trends in unique, thought-provoking ways. Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, for example, have established themselves as pioneers in creating luxury fashion that intertwines Black culture, streetwear, and high fashion. As more major fashion brands collaborate with Black creatives, the power of Black talent continues to grow. Collaborations like Martine Rose x Supreme, Solange & Saint Heron, Maximilian Davis x Ferragamo, Olivier Rousteing (Balmain), Dapper Dan (Gucci), and Grace Wales Bonner have solidified Black designers as influential forces in the mainstream fashion industry. Their collaborations bring fresh perspectives, influencing not just the aesthetic but the business models of global luxury houses.
The influence of emerging Black designers and creatives with large brands has contributed to sustained industry recognition. Institutions such as Harlem Fashion Row and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have played a crucial role in uplifting Black talent by providing access to mentorship, resources, and platforms for Black designers to showcase their work. These institutions continue to open doors for Black creatives, ensuring they have the tools to succeed year round. What sets these brands apart is their ability to go beyond seasonal trends, positioning themselves for long-term success by creating collections that are not only culturally resonant but also sustainable in the long run. Through ethical sourcing, local manufacturing, and a commitment to environmental responsibility, these brands ensure that their influence endures long after the fleeting nature of trend cycles.
It’s clear that Black-owned fashion brands have the potential to be major players in the global fashion landscape. However, for this potential to be realized, year-round support from consumers, retailers, and the broader fashion industry is essential. Black-owned brands should not be seen as a trend or seasonal novelty, but as integral components of a sustainable, diverse, and inclusive fashion ecosystem. The collective role of consumers, retailers, and the fashion industry in strengthening the Black circular economy cannot be overstated. By committing to sustained economic empowerment rather than fleeting gestures, we can help create a fashion world that celebrates and supports Black creativity year-round.
