CULTURE
The Consequences of Thrifting's Newfound Popularity
By: Sheza Qasim Edited by: Maya Merante and Eleanor Unsworth
Thrifting has gained popularity in the last decade as a sustainable, affordable alternative to fast fashion, drawing people into second-hand stores to hunt for vintage gems or budget-friendly essentials. However, in recent years, the practice has seen alarming changes, leading many to question whether thrifting still holds the same value it once did, specifically regarding environmental impact and accessibility.
Fundamentally, thrift stores exist to provide an affordable alternative to buying new goods, making it possible for people, especially those with lower incomes, to purchase clothing, accessories, household items, and more. However, with the rise in sustainability movements and the revival of 90s and early 2000s clothing trends, thrift stores have become a popular shopping destination for Gen-Z.
Clothing prices at thrift stores have significantly increased since COVID-19. A surge of interest in sustainable, second-hand shopping has led to an increase in demand, thus increasing prices. With an increased popularity of thrifting amongst a wealthier demographic, thrift stores have realized they can increase prices to benefit their business. However, thrift stores receive donated clothes, meaning that their inventory is completely free. The fact that thrift stores are raising prices without any reduction in inventory or demand suggests they are doing so to maximize profits. Another reason for thrift store price increases is the rising prices due to inflation in the United States. Inflation has been at a record high since the COVID-19 pandemic, causing a shift in prices for all goods. General inflation in the United States has increased from 1.23% in 2020 to 8.0% in 2022 according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, which may have contributed to the rise in secondhand goods prices.
With the rise of apps like Depop, Poshmark, and Mercari in the past decade, reselling has become popular. Many resellers buy clothing from thrift stores and sell it on an online platform, marking up the price. However, reselling requires hours of work, including sourcing, photographing, and posting; a price increase can reflect that labor. When questioned about the ethics of reselling, resellers point to the fact that the clothing market is overstocked, and many clothes in thrift stores still end up in landfills due to a surplus in clothing. Incentivising people to resell clothing can relieve the stress on thrift stores and reduce clothing waste.
Rezi Ubogu, owner of the vintage store, Releigh Freya, and a successful Depop seller, explains that while some resellers use unethical practices, there are feasible alternatives. “I never want to be an opportunist that goes in and gentrifies a space [by] taking things that people actually need,” she explains. By thrifting with the sole purpose of reselling for profit, (an example being buying a kid’s shirt and labeling it a woman “extra small,”) many resellers are actually taking advantage of the thrift store's business model.
Ubogu also discussed an unethical problem with thrift stores receiving clothing and jewelry for free, then marking up the price because they know these items will be resold. Despite the mission of most thrift stores, many choose to maximize profits, rather than catering to less fortunate populations. Thrift stores are able to charge higher prices because they know that resellers will buy their product and sell it for an even higher price.
Arguments can be made for both sides of the reselling market; however, there are clear unethical implications of marking up an item dozens of times more than its initial price. This markup takes advantage of thrift stores that are designed to help people of lower incomes.
There isn’t a straightforward solution to higher prices in thrift stores. However, like Ubogu, resellers can grow their businesses by selling items that aren’t in demand by less wealthy demographics. Consumers should continue to support thrift stores as a business that offers affordable options to low-income individuals and a more sustainable option that combats fast-fashion practices.
