CULTURE
Life in Looks- The Importance of the Archive
By: Chioma Gregoire, Senior Writer Edited by: Eliza Brown
The archive serves two purposes: it is both a concept and a physical place. “It acts as a collection of items that creates a sense of equivalence among different images” (Allan Sekula). In the context of fashion, the archive provides a way to look back at our past identities, acknowledging and setting them to rest as a piece of history that recounts an existence worthy of reverence and appreciation. Vogue’s, Life in Looks series, does just this. The Life in Looks archive represents a consistent appreciation of fashion’s evolution, allowing the celebrity interviewee to find their permanent place in Vogue’s collective digital archive, while also reflecting on their growth as a fashion icon. Each episode offers a glimpse into the wardrobes of fashion icons, new and old, chronicling their transformations through pivotal looks that define their careers. More than mere outfits, these styles symbolize moments of "ego death," where public personas shift and evolve in response to personal growth and societal pressures. Through this exploration, Life in Looks not only documents the past, but also invites us to consider the profound implications of reinventing oneself in the spotlight of fame.
Fashion is constantly changing; trend cycles appear and reappear, and designers are regularly adapting to create pieces that will cement the legacies of the houses for whom they design, working with past silhouettes and patterns to create something new. This archive is not static; rather, it continuously evolves, responding to shifting cultural landscapes, political climates, and individual expressions. Each look, from high fashion to street style, represents a timestamp—a piece of history that reflects the identity of the era, as well as the wearer. Designers play a key role in this archival process, crafting pieces that encapsulate the spirit of the moment while simultaneously paying homage to historical references. Through their work, they provide value to the fashion houses they represent, often blending vintage aesthetics with modern ideas to create something entirely new. This process transforms fashion into a living archive, where every outfit is a snapshot of a particular cultural mood, a marker of identity, and a reflection of societal values.
As such, fashion becomes a cultural record that holds significance – not only for those who create and wear these pieces, but also for future generations in search of understanding the values and innovations of past eras. Whether it’s a bold avant-garde piece or a minimalist classic, each look carries the imprint of its time, forever documenting the intersection of personal identity and societal change. Revisiting past looks in fashion carries a rich symbolism that goes beyond mere nostalgia; it acts as a mirror that reflects personal growth, ego transformation, and larger societal shifts. These retrospective moments serve as markers of evolution, charting how individuals, particularly celebrities and cultural icons, have changed over time in response to both personal and societal forces. By looking back at these iconic outfits, one can trace the arc of transformation, seeing how certain looks represented distinct phases in a person’s life, be it moments of experimentation, rebellion, or refinement. Lifestyle blogger, Lauren Bernard, in her blog, Wellesley and King, states, “Knowing that literally every day contains the possibility to change your life, and that your clothes can play a major role in that, putting the time into your appearance does not make you superficial or self-absorbed or lacking confidence.” She brings into the conversation a challenging perspective, opposing the misconception that prioritizing personal style is shallow, and instead framing it as an empowering act that can influence how one seizes opportunities and presents themselves to the world.
Each look from the past can be seen as a record of "ego death"—a concept where individuals shed old identities to embrace new ones. In fashion, ego death can manifest when public figures change their style to align with new versions of themselves, often triggered by experiences such as personal growth, career milestones, or responses to public perception. For instance, an example of a fashion era transformation can be seen during Rihanna’s Punk Era in 2009, after the release of her album, “Rated R,” and aftermath of the infamous assault from her then-boyfriend, Chris Brown. This era marked a significant shift in her personal and artistic identity, where her edgy, rebellious style reflected the raw, unapologetic themes of the album. By embracing darker aesthetics and bold, punk-inspired fashion, Rihanna used her style as a form of self-expression and reclamation of her narrative, solidifying her status as a fearless trendsetter in both the music and fashion industries. This shedding of old personas and adoption of new ones mirror the natural life process of letting go and reinventing oneself — a journey captured vividly through the changing of wardrobes. In this sense, each look is more than a piece of clothing; it’s a timestamp of personal and cultural reinvention. Recalling these past outfits allows us to celebrate the journey, acknowledging the ways both the individual and society have evolved. It invites viewers and fans to reflect on their own transformations, recognizing that personal style is a powerful narrative tool—a form of storytelling where each look symbolizes chapters of growth, shifts in perspective, and responses to the world around us. Through the symbolic act of revisiting these iconic styles, fashion becomes a living history, charting the progression of identity, ego, and society as they move through time.
Vogue’s Life in Looks series beautifully embraces the concept of ego death in fashion. Through this series, guests are invited to relive some of their most defining style moments, each captured in a physical book that acts as a personal archive. The book is presented as a tangible object that guests flip through and reflect upon, offering them a rare opportunity to comment on the choices behind their most iconic looks. One of my personal favorite episodes is Erykah Badu’s Life in Looks appearance, where she goes through her journey of maintaining her signature eclectic Badu-style while uplifting Black and African diasporic designers. She says, “I didn't wear name brand designers during this time period from 90s to mid-2000s. I only wore Black designers from New York or Dallas or Atlanta. I wanted to make sure that I used my platform to be an advocate for young designers.” This commitment to using her influence to support emerging Black talent not only underscores her authenticity but also highlights her role as a cultural and creative advocate. By doing so, each guest reveals intimate backstories and explains how each era of their style marks a transformative chapter in their lives. Each episode culminates with the featured guest signing their archive, symbolically placing their personal style evolution within the Vogue walls. This act of signing captures their growth and allows the archive to stand as a testament to their journey, representing a permanent place within the Life in Looks history. Alanna Fairley’s article, “Personal Branding Through Fashion,” explores this idea of fashion as a form of visual language, explaining, “I believe fashion is a powerful language that speaks before we do, with our choices in colors, patterns, and styles revealing our personality, values, and aspirations.” These fashion moments serve as both a personal and public rebirth. Each look reveals layers of reinvention, where the guests not only rediscover themselves but also reinterpret their personas through the cultural lens of fashion. Reinventing themselves in each chapter of their lives, they emerge with a refined identity that reflects the shifts in their personal narratives, their response to public perception, and their engagement with social trends.
Life in Looks serves a dual function that extends beyond cataloging memorable fashion moments; it stands as both a rich archive of fashion history and a profound commentary on the shifting nature of identity and fame. Through its archival role, the series captures pivotal style transformations, tracing the evolution of iconic figures as they redefine themselves across different eras. This archive becomes a valuable cultural artifact, offering insight into not only personal style but also the broader societal values and norms that influence these transformations.
