FASHION
The Return of Fur in Fashion
By: Mayeya Dominguez Edited by: Maya Merante
After years of being cast out of the spotlight, fur is making a definite comeback in the fashion industry. Fur has been a fashion staple for centuries. It has been worn by royals and elites in all societies across many time periods, securing its association with status and wealth. After being an iconic staple among celebrities in the 90s and early 2000s, concerns about animal rights and sustainability prompted bans on fur by U.S. states and designers. The past couple of years have seen the increasing popularity of fur, from social media trends to runways. If the public mildly agrees the trend is wrong, why is it that people continue to be so drawn to it?
Fur represents luxury and comfort, and people are captivated by those ideals. “It’s hard for humanity to suddenly not long for an object that they’ve been wired to desire for thousands of years.” Even though society knows it’s wrong, owning a fur item represents success and frivolity— something people have desired for so long.
The use of fur as a clothing material dates back to the earliest human civilizations as protection for cold weather. With the evolution of society and technology, fur became a status symbol. Acquiring fur was a difficult process due to the fact that creating the material requires an extensive process of hunting and cleaning. Therefore, only those with considerable wealth could afford it. Different types of furs were assigned to specific members of society: “In ancient Egypt for instance a leopard skin or lion skin could be worn only by kings or high priests performing ceremony.” Similarly, in England, only those of high social status wore mink, chinchilla and ermine fur. Throughout the 1900s, styles evolved and fur could be used to fit different eras of aesthetics. For example, it could be associated with the hippie and bohemian style popular in the late 60s and 70s, it can also be associated with rap culture from the 90s. It was not until the 80s that animal rights regarding fur in fashion became a large movement. This led to the widespread use of fake fur, which is more ethical and accessible.
With an increased awareness of animal rights and the unsustainability that comes with manufacturing fur items, “California banned the sale and manufacture of almost all new fur, and major brands like Prada and Gucci said they no longer use it, a trend the industry has since followed,” according to the Wall Street Journal. Becoming sustainable was the “trend,” and people felt compelled to support brands that swore off using fur. In 2021, Billie Eilish was successful in persuading Oscar De La Renta to stop using fur by refusing to wear their designs to the MET Gala unless they stopped using fur. She commented to NME, “I'm honoured to have been a catalyst and to have been heard on this matter. I urge all designers to do the same." Celebrities hold a lot of power in influencing the fashion world. Billie Eilish raised awareness about the use of fur in fashion and successfully encouraged designers to stop using it.
This trend of preservation ended in recent years, and fur has made a comeback in the fashion world. In 2023 and 2024, the “Mob Wife” trend became popular on TikTok. People seemed inspired by figures like Carmela Soprano and wanted to copy her understated yet elegant style. Characterized by French manicures, gold hoops, and big fur coats, fur slowly started to become popular again. Aside from social media trends, fur has also made a comeback on the runways. “Michael Kors, Prada, Simone Rocha, Miu Miu and Saint Laurent, to name a few, all included fur or a fur-like material in their latest collections.” Vogue reported how celebrities are also using their influence to bring fur back into the spotlight. Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber, two of the most influential celebrities right now, were seen wearing fur coats in Aspen this past January.
The continued use of fur by those with money and status contributes to the reappearance of fur in the fashion world. It is still seen as a symbol of wealth and status, which people want to follow and replicate, possibly to feel closer to their icons. The renaissance of fur in fashion signals a complex relationship between the desire for luxury and ethical considerations. Although faux fur is more popular because of its accessibility and sustainability, the resurgence of fur in 2023 and 2024, fueled by celebrity influence and social media trends, reflects how the desire for luxury remains present in society.
